By Tengku Humaira Tengku Naufal
The inevitable approach of Hari Raya Aidilfitri means being excited over the (sometimes-stressful) endeavour of finding the perfect Raya outfit to wear. There are many choices to choose from, especially with the constant evolution of clothing styles throughout the years.
The traditional baju kurung from the 90s remains a classic. With the pleats at the side of the skirt along with the kekek and pesak on the baju itself, it is an easily distinguishable outfit, especially during the Hari Raya celebrations.
The baju kurung has a straight-cut blouse that extends until slightly below the knees. The Straits Times delves deep into evolution of Aidilfitri through Noor Ashikin Abdul Rahman’s article entitled ‘A walk through history in Hari Raya fashion’ published on 28 June 2016.
The article states that the early 2000s provides for a more decorated baju kurung with sequins on the sleeves and hemline. Adding these make a more sophisticated and chicer look. The patterns of the baju kurung also depart slightly from the typical batik by focusing on other bright and colourful motifs.
But according to Noor Ashikin, the raya fashion in the late 2000s contrasted quite a bit with the early 2000s in terms of style with the combined sheer chiffon blouse and kain songket. It was popular to pair a plain blouse with any complementing kain songket as a skirt. Usually, the blouse would have slightly larger sleeves that would hang off one’s arms loosely. This modern twist had a hint of tradition reflected by the skirt, projecting grace.
As time progresses, there will surely be more hints of modernity. This was evident in the 2010s, when lace was incorporated into one’s baju kurung. The sheer look from the late 2000s was preserved with the use of lace fabric. The late 2010s had some influence over the late 2000s through the use of large sleeves but this look is different now with flared sleeves. The casual look of the top, as described by Noor Ashikin, allows you to pair it with any matching skirt and its appearance is similar to the baju kurung Kedah.
Speaking of baju kurung Kedah, it should be highlighted that some Malaysian states have made their own designs adapted from the traditional baju kurung. They have added a personal twist to the traditional baju kurung pesak.
The Bruno website illustrates some of the designs of the baju kurung adaptations. Starting with the baju kurung Kedah, its sleeves are three quarters long and are boxy. The cut of baju kurung Pahang is similar to the traditional baju kurung blouse except it is flared at the bottom. It is also fitted and projects a more formal look.
Women are also not limited in terms of the baju kebaya. This outfit has risen to popularity between the 60s and 70s and is still worn by many women today. Lengthwise, the blouse of the kebaya is much shorter than the blouse of the kurung but a skirt is still worn. Along with the usual sheer top, a kebaya is worn with a sarong or batik skirt. As mentioned by Alia Kamelia in her Says article entitled ‘7 Types of Kebaya You Probably Never Knew Existed’, there are also many different styles of the kebaya including Nyonya kebaya, Javanese kebaya, and more.
A long relaxed full-length robe known as the abaya is also more often worn by Muslim women particularly those who wear the hijab as described by Fanisyah Effendi in her Must Share Good Things article ‘Hari Raya Fashion Trends, Then and Now’, published on 26th April 2021. The abaya is described as a plain single-coloured abaya or a more intricately designed one that will definitely present the grace and beauty of the wearer.
Yet, since the Raya attire is something that everyone would think of every year, prominent brands such as Ariani, Jakel, and Duck have been creating different eye-catching designs to attract people to buy them. Renowned celebrities modelling for these brands would create buzz surrounding the pieces causing other people to buy or even tailor-make their own version of the attire. This allows for more contemporary looks and designs of the traditional attire to gain popularity each year.
It is well-known that men would usually dress in baju Melayu, which would naturally consist of the regular long-sleeved shirt with its accompanying long trousers. This would usually be of the same colour and be combined with a kain samping and songkok.
Even if there is not much change in what men usually wear during Hari Raya, there are some interesting departures from the traditional baju Melayu.
Fanisyah Effendi mentioned how men prefer to wear kurtas as opposed to the usual baju Melayu and samping combination. The loose collarless shirt allows you to pair it with any pair of trousers for a smart and dashing look. Some even opt for a jubah instead for an easy-to-go outfit whilst still looking good.
Although the latest styles and trends are ever-changing, we can see that the traditional baju kurung and baju melayu will remain as popular as ever. Even with chic new styles for aesthetic value as well as comfort, it is obvious that we stick to our roots with the different variations of what our ancestors have worn to promote modesty and elegance. ***