SOCA students attend summer course in Jakarta

By, Nurul Shazliyana Mohd Azlan and Nur Dhaniyah Hider

We are two students from the Department of Sociology and Anthropology representing the IIUM and Malaysia in a 10-day Sutan Takdir Alisjabhana Summer Course from 16 September to 28 September 2024. Members from the Faculty of Social and Political Sciences at Universitas Nasional Indonesia (UNAS), South Jakarta, Indonesia, had interviewed and selected us for the Summer Camp Course titled, “Toward Inclusive Urban Development in the Global South.” It brought together students from various countries, including Malaysia, Japan, Kenya, Gambia, Malawi, Tanzania, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, allowing us to explore critical topics in urban development, such as modern city growth, public policy, and urban sustainability. Jakarta is a focal point for discussing urban challenges in the Global South. It was a sponsored programme organised by UNAS and other international universities.

The course began with sessions at UNAS, where we explored the modern roots of city development from the colonial era to the contemporary situation by examining the phenomenon of rapid urbanisation. It focused on the demographic shifts and economic factors driving rural-to-urban migration and the strain these places had on urban infrastructure and services. This set the stage for understanding the proliferation of informal settlements and slums and the lived experiences of the urban poor.

As part of the course, all participants visited several historical sites, including Kota Tua Jakarta and Museum Fatahillah, to explore the emergence of modern urban governance and colonial citizenship concepts at the turn of the twentieth century.

The visits also examined how global economic and cultural development have influenced Jakarta’s built environment, highlighting the dynamic interplay between international and indigenous concepts in shaping the city’s growth. From the course, participants delved into the rich tapestry of cultures that define Indonesian cities. The ethnic groups, languages, religions, and traditions are a hallmark of these urban centres. The course let us explore how this cultural wealth shapes the rhythms of daily life, from bustling marketplaces to vibrant festivals. It reflected its rich history and diverse population, influencing Betawi, Chinese, and Arab communities, creating a unique urban environment characterised by cultural fusion, economic collaboration, and social dynamism. This was somehow shaped by its colonial past and ongoing social changes. Jakarta transcends narrow cultural identities, continually evolving as a fascinating metropolis that embodies Indonesia’s rich heritage and multiculturalism. The participants also examined the tensions that rose as traditional practices clash with the demands of modern urban living.

From this course, we also learned about Jakarta’s transformation into the nation’s capital during the New Order era, unravelling how it became a thriving economic hub that magnetised waves of urban migration. We also gained valuable insights into the city’s present-day challenges and ongoing development, mainly its role at the heart of the other sprawling towns related to Jakarta, Bogor, Depok, Tangerang, and Bekasi, known as Jabodetabek Megacity in Indonesia and played the most significant role within social, economic, and political aspects. However, the lack of planning ability to deal with the growing complexity of managing this area should be seriously remarked upon. As one of the largest urban conglomerates in the world, Jakarta now faces complex issues of overpopulation, infrastructure strain and sustainability, reflecting both the promises and pressures of rapid urbanisation..

Our exploration of the different neighbourhoods in Jakarta made us reflect upon the complex process of gentrification, where once modest, often lower-income areas are transformed by an influx of wealthier residents, new developments, and commercial projects. This transformation led to rising property values and improved infrastructure. Still, it often comes at the cost of replacing long-time residents and altering the social fabric of local communities. In Jakarta, gentrification is evident in areas undergoing rapid urban renewal, where blending global economic interests and local cultures reshape the city’s landscape. While these changes may enhance the city’s modern image, they also create tensions around social equity as traditional ways of life are replaced by new lifestyles and urban dynamics.

Having an informal discussion with our international friends.

In the last few days, we learned about urban inequalities in Jakarta, like many other rapidly developing cities, this manifested from disparities and environmental injustice, particularly affecting vulnerable populations, including children. In this context, human capital- particularly children growing up in urban settings- are crucial to the city’s future. The importance of nurturing this human capital led to implementing policies like the Child-Friendly City initiative to ensure that urban environments promote children’s well-being, safety, and development. The policy focuses on creating inclusive spaces prioritising children’s health, education, and safety. It emphasises on reducing health disparities by ensuring access to healthcare, safe play areas, clean air, and green spaces and fostering educational opportunities. Through these efforts, the policy aims to promote healthy communities by nurturing the next generation and ensuring they have the tools to thrive in an increasingly complex urban landscape.

Moreover, addressing the broader urban inequities also requires understanding the role of the informal sectors that are a sizable part of Jakarta’s economy. These informal economic activities, often outside formal regulatory frameworks, have profound social and financial implications, where the informal sectors drive much of the local commerce. In examining the dynamics of these informal sectors, one must consider their flexibility, resilience, and how they adapt to urban changes and pressures. In Tanah Abang, Jakarta’s largest textile market and a hub of informal trading, we see how informality drives economic growth in the city. Despite its unregulated nature, the informal sector in Tanah Abang plays a crucial role in shaping Jakarta’s commercial landscape.

Our educational visit at the Universitas Gadjah Mada, Indonesia.

What fascinated us the most about the trip was how we could connect all the themes covered regarding Jakarta’s urban development planning to the courses our SOCA department offers. It is captivating how the child-free city and our SOCA course on marriage and family are related, as the child’s right to future security and the parent’s duty to provide for their upbringing in a secure environment are intertwined. This covers how the community they live and develop may guarantee the children’s safety, education, and well-being. Secondly, after taking the SOCA course on social stratification, we observed how urban transformation promotes modernisation and better living conditions for the neighbourhood’s population. However, many people need to be made aware of the adverse effects. As property values and rents rise, long-standing residents—typically working-class or lower-income—are often forced out of their homes. This disrupts their social networks, makes accessing affordable housing harder, and reduces their social mobility. Displacement pushes them to more marginalised areas, often with fewer opportunities, further entrenching social stratification.

After nine days immersed in Jakarta’s lively, modern pulse, we set out on 24 September for the cultural heart of Java – Yogyakarta. Surprisingly, our arrival in Yogyakarta felt like stepping into an ancient world. With its deeply rooted traditions and historical landmarks, this city offered a stark contrast to Jakarta’s rapid pace. We began our journey by visiting Taman Sari, or the Water Castle. This 18^th-century bathing complex, once a private retreat for the Sultan, was unlike anything we had seen before. The intricate blend of Javanese and Portuguese architecture told a story of cultural exchange and historical opulence. The serene pools and hidden passageways sparked our imaginations, offering a glimpse into the life of Javanese royalty and the tranquil beauty they valued. 

Next, we ventured to Keraton Ngayogyakarta, the royal palace that stands as a testament to the living legacy of the Sultanate. Wandering through the Keraton’s open pavilions and elaborately carved wooden structures, we witnessed firsthand the careful preservation of Javanese traditions. Here, time seemed to move slowly, in rhythm with the graceful performances of classical Javanese dance, reminding us of the enduring influence of Yogyakarta’s royal heritage. 

Visit to Keraton (palace) in Yogjakarta

Later, we made our way to Pantai Parangtritis, a beach that holds a mystical place in Javanese lore. It is the domain of Ratu Kidul – the Queen of the Southern Sea. Watching the waves crash against the shoreline, we were reminded of the Javanese belief in harmony between land, sea, and spirit. Parangtritis’ dramatic cliffs created a striking landscape, providing a tranquil yet powerful setting that felt deeply connected to the island’s ancient legends.

We journeyed to Museum Ullen Sentalu the following day, tucked away in the cool highlands near Yogyakarta. The museum was a treasure trove of Javanese art, textiles, and artefacts, telling stories of past sultans and noble families. Wandering through its artfully designed spaces, we gained insight into Java’s delicate craftsmanship and deep spiritual heritage, with exhibits that celebrated everything from intricate batik patterns to age-old traditions. Then, we continued our journey to Sewu Temple, one of Indonesia’s most prominent Buddhist temples, dating back to the 8^th century. With its central shrine and hundreds of surrounding stupas, this ancient site revealed the region’s Buddhist roots and the spiritual harmony that once characterised Javanese society. Standing among these ancient stones, we felt a profound connection to the early kingdoms that helped shape the cultural landscape of Java. 

Our visit to Borobudur Temple.

We ended our tour at Kotagede, a historic neighbourhood known as the birthplace of the Mataram Sultanate. Walking down narrow streets lined with traditional Javanese houses, where Kotagede is well preserved, architecture, blending Javanese, Islamic and colonial influences, provided a unique perspective on how the neighbourhood has maintained its identity amidst changing times. As our time in Yogyakarta ended on 26 September, we left with a new appreciation for the diversity and depth of Javanese culture, from the regal halls of Keraton to the mystical shores of Parangtritis. This journey through Yogyakarta’s heritage and the summaer course in Jakarta highlighted the balance of tradition and modernity that makes Indonesia’s development so unique.

The summer course in Jakarta offered an invaluable opportunity to critically analyse the situation surrounding urban development in the Global South, from exploring the historical roots of the city’s growth to examining contemporary challenges, that offered a comprehensive view of Jakarta’s urban dynamics. This experience underscored the complexity of urban development in rapidly growing cities like Jakarta, where traditional practices and modern policies must coexist to address diverse challenges.

The experience was made possible through the support and sponsorship of the Universitas Nasional (UNAS), particularly the Faculty of Social and Political Sciences, which enriched our learning experience. We would also like to thank the Department of Sociology and Anthropology of the IIUM for encouraging our participation in this programme. The experience deepened our understanding of urbanisation and inspires future contributions towards more inclusive and sustainable urban planning.***

(The article was written by Sr. Nurul Shazliyana binti Mohd Azlan and Sr. Nur Dhaniyah binti Hider, students from the Department of Sociology and Anthropology, AbdulHamid AbuSulayman Kulliyyah of Islamic Revealed Knowledge and Human Sciences, International Islamic University Malaysia.)