By Wafa Awla Alias
It took around three hours from Tehran to arrive at Kashan by bus. Kashan is an old city located between Tehran and Esfahan. That was the first time I looked outside the window and found myself crossing the desert for the very first time. I cried and realised how big and small the world can be at the same time.
The weather was quite hot but we were so lucky since the bus provided us with water and snacks along the way. In the bus, there was a woman in Iranian cloth called chadur who greeted me with friendly smile and suggested a few places that I should go when I arrived in Kashan.
Mukhsin, Very Good and Very Nice
As we arrived Kashan, there were several taxi drivers waiting at the bus stop explaining to us the best things that they can offer. Unlike in Tehran, we found some people who could speak English and we were so excited. The communication process became easier since we did not have to look at the dictionary every time. With that thought in mind we met Mukhsin and hired him to take us around Kashan. Mukhsin, however, knows a few words of English.
He drove us to several places and kept repeating the phrase “Very Good, Very Nice”. Therefore we will always remember Mukhsin as “Mister Very Good Very Nice”. Throughout the conversation, we found out that he’s a father of two children and had been working as a driver to earn a living. Those who can speak in English, though not completely fluent, will always have a chance to improve their living by working as a tour guide. Mukhsin is one of them. He always asked us to teach him a few English words to improve himself.
Bagh-e-Fin Garden
One of the famous places in Kashan that everyone should go is Bagh-e-Fin Garden. This garden has been listed as The Persian Garden by UNESCO World Heritage in 2012. The history of Fin garden started during the time of Shah Abas as the 5th Safavid King of Iran.
When I entered the place, I was very amazed to see the garden surrounded by cypress trees, aromatic smell of flowers and beautiful building structures of Fin garden. I could see many children playing around the fountain and family who were relaxing under a shady tree.
One side of the garden is a bathhouse where Amir Kabir, the famous Iranian nationalist, had been murdered. The bathhouse is large and connected by a small path along the way. I was told that there was a huge fountain in the middle of the garden but unfortunately no longer exists due to the negligence of some researchers who broke the pipe made of ceramic. Despite that, fin garden is still wonderfully furnished by fountain with water super abundantly flows in turquoise coloured pool. That was the moment I sat beside the pool with eyes closed. Listening to the sound of water flowing under the shady tree, believe me, it was absolutely calm.
Abyaneh
Abyaneh is the traditional village located at Karkas Mountain. There are no public buses available there. So, we rented a car to go through the hilly road. The most special thing that makes it as the best village to visit compared to other places is because of all buildings in this ancient village is made by red clay. We can see the villagers still wear their traditional clothing consists of the long scarf usually with floral pattern and colourful dresses. Along the street, I realised in every house there are two types of knocker in front of the door. The left side is shaped like an oblong and the other is shaped like an around. If the guest who comes to the house is a man, they will use knocker with the oblong shaped and the host will notify it by distinguish the sound of a knock.
Sitting alone on the site of the road while enjoying ice cream flavoured Saffron (one of Iran famous spice), and being surrounded by crumbling mud-brick houses, reminded me with the well-known Iranian literature tale about Layla and Majnun. Perhaps Abyaneh can be the setting of that unfulfilled tragic love story.
After a few hours in Abyaneh, we left Kashan to move to our next destination. If you were to travel to Iran, I really encourage you to stop by and go to Kashan. You will easily fall in love with the desert, the gentle breeze blowing from the mountain, and the antiquity of the culture. Given all the above reasons, it made me really hard to say goodbye to Kashan. ***
