By Wafa Awla
As we listened to a song entitled Terusir by Nidji we were on our way visiting a village where a famous poet and ulamak hailed from. As we approached the village, from Bukit Lawang we saw a very beautiful place which no words could really describe. It was like a place we saw in a western fairy tale filled with uniqueness, classical, and a mystery, yet so peaceful.
The place is surrounded by hills embraced by fog especially in the morning and even when the sun is rising, it is still cold. There is also a lake which reflects calmness where the water looks crystal clear. The beauty of this place known as Danau Maninjau was mentioned by Haji Abdul Malik Karim Amrullah (HAMKA) in his book, Kenang-Kenangan Hidup.
Danau Maninjau is located 36 kilometres from Bukit Tinggi, west Sumatra, Indonesia. To get there, we have to go through 44 curves known as Kelok Ampek Puluah Ampek by the locals. These curves are so popular that it is a subject in Minang classical songs. Interestingly, every curve on the road is marked by a number and the Asmaul Husna. All down the curve, tourists are greeted with the scene of terraced paddy fields and Lake Maninjau as far as 70 kilometres’ away. After passing the 44 curves, Buya Hamka’s museum is a must to visit.
HAMKA was archipelago’s famous ulamak, philosopher and novelist. Among his works were Tafsir Al Azhar, Di Bawah Lindungan Ka’abah, Tenggelamnya Kapal van der Wijck, Tuan Direktur, Falsafah Hidup and Peribadi.
Museum Buya Hamka was established in 2001 as a place to commemorate his illustrious achievements. The museum’s caretaker is Hanif Rashid or Pak Hanif who is also a close relative of HAMKA.
As a child, Pak Hanif said, HAMKA was rebellious and stubborn. “HAMKA was catapulting villagers, stealing food at the market and kept away from school. Villagers didn’t like him. HAMKA was known as anak nakal as a result of such behaviour,” he added.
But, HAMKA’s life changed when he travelled outside including to Java and at the age of 19 he has travelled to Egypt and studied there. He began to learn Arabic language, literature, Al Quran, and more. On his return to Indonesia, he became a teacher in Medan before marrying Siti Raham at 21 at the request of his father. HAMKA became popular for his good speeches. Every word that he used is like rain that falls gently into the heart of his listeners. HAMKA’s books increasingly captured the heart of the poet. The beauty of Danau Maninjau often inspired HAMKA to write.
“He would sit in front of the porch overlooking the lake. Nature inspired him to write. Even though he was talking to people who visited his home, he could still write his story at the same time. He seemed to have memorised every word of his works,” added Pak Hanif.
HAMKA passed away at the age of 73, after writing 94 books. But HAMKA is still alive in the soul of each of us till now. Lake Maninjau will always be a special place not just because it’s crystal clear, but because the place saw the tears, laughter, delinquency, and glory of the poet HAMKA.
This is the place where a thousand stories is yet to be told.***